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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.